Is there anyone London-based who is competent to fix monitors? I have a power-supply problem.
It’s a 22inch LCD monitor that’s only eighteen months or so old…
Just out of guarantee then?
Oh dear, new enough to be a valuable asset, old enough to be out of warranty.
I would contact the manufacturer to find their nearest service provider and use that. It may cost something; ask for a quote and if it’s more than a new monitor would cost, buy a new one. Good luck!
I went round on Saturday and had a go at checking that the cables were in properly etc. and swapped Roz’s VGA cable for one that I know is working – it seemed to work for a while, then died completely about half an hour after I left, which makes me think it’s something like a dodgy connection. Unfortunately I’m not skilled enough to go inside the casing of an LCD monitor without killing it permanently!
The situation now is that it sits dead for hours, and then gets an amber light. If I then turn the computer on, the amber light flashes green and dies. If I then turn the computer off again, the light comes on green about ten minutes later, at which point I can turn the computer on and keep it on. If it sleeps, it dies – rinse, repeat. I shall nurse it for a few days and then buy a new monitor – not much point in having a specialist in because that would cost around £50 and I can get a new monitor for £120 or so.
From that description it is the ‘sleep mode’ latch at fault. This could be either the power supply or – more likely imho – a loose junction in the video connector. Is this a sub-D or something more modern?
What is a sub-D? This is an AMW 22 inch LCD and about 18 months old. And if you are right, as seems likely, have a man in, or buy a new one?
The connector from the computer to the screen could use one of three types of connector.
The oldest form is the sub-d:
This will sometimes not be fully pushed in, such that not all circuits remain in place.
Or it could be a DVI:
This is more modern (but already superseded!) and sometimes suffers the same not-pushed-in-fully.
The other sort is HDMI, which is a serial interface and more likely to be ‘on’ or ‘off’ than flakey. If it is this type then it is probably a board replacement jobbie (which costs more than a new monitor)
If either of the first two check for loose cables.
It’s a sub-D. There’s also a DVI socket, unfortunately I don’t have appropriate cables to test it, and Roz doesn’t have a DVI output on her computer. I did make sure both ends of the sub-D cable were in fully, so I don’t think it’s that.
ta. I’ve more than once found that the wires _inside_ the socket (ie not the cable) have got stressed at some point such that each line’s socket (which is a push-in to the fitment) isn’t making full / permanent contact, instead being pushed into the case when the free-wire end (plug or socket) is pushed in, but that would require taking the case off and probably getting a meter out.
There’s a friend of mine who’s a complete tech wiz, if you want I could ask him.
That would be amazing. Yes, please.
One thing, and this is just a suggestion, but this friend of mine is just starting a fixing electronics business himself, so if there could be some small money involved I would be really grateful for his sake. No pressure, and he wouldn’t ask, but if you have a bit laying around it would be really cool.
Not a problem if he fixes it
Alas, he doesn’t think he can fix monitors, he does know someone who can, and I’ll send you the number when he sends it, but he also thinks you should still be under warrenty, as most fo them last 3 years.
That]s a thought but not sure U still have the paperwork.
remember that the “warranty” period is irrelevant so far as the law is concerned. The Sale of Good Act term is that the item must be “of merchantable quality” which means it must last for a reasonable expectation of lifetime. A modern monitor would, I’d suggest, be expected to remain in good working order for at least 6 years.
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